In this other place

Hello, World from Xela, Guatemala.

I hardly know where to start. Is it people or places? In my recent musings on the HV, I've stuck to places. Though in my own journal last night, it was all people. How about some background and then we'll have some of both.

I'm here with DHM (my formerly downstairs housemate). and her sister. Lion and Turtle come tomorrow! Hurrah! I am pathetic mess trying to get along sans Lion. Xela, if you're not familiar, is in the Western highlands of Guatemala (which, if you're really unfamiliar is just South of Mexico). It's a big, but not huge, dirty, beautiful, chaotic. Brightly colored then drab. There are many more gringos than I remember from a visit three years back, but not the city doesn't cater to them in the same overwhelming way it does in some places. We passed the last week quietly. I've been pouring a healthy amount of WD-40 across my quite rusty Spanish skills at CBA. My maestro, Roberto, could have come directly from the stock on my high school math team. So very familiar is his personality, complete with engineering school, awkward jokes, a passion for Beavis and Butthead, and a slightly hesitant and very genuine friendliness. I feel a heck of a lot more confident speaking than I did six days ago, though a big stack of vocab flashcards would be useful. At CBA, we're tended to by the director Hugo and his wife, Elbia. They are just the sort of kind, thoughtful and open people you'd want to find yourself tended by in an unfamiliar place. Or in any place, really. I am nurturing a hope that friends here can stay friends for a long time. After several visits over the last few years, DHM has compiled a healthy bunch of friends here. DHM has a healthy disdain for the rest of the gringo population, and it leads us well into hole-in-the wall restaurants. There is a funniness in watching the bevy of Guatemalan male devotees that she and her sister have acquired. Nery, Julio, Marcos, Oswaldo, Javier. Marcos is my favorite, a student, musician and laundromat attendant, he is gregarious, thoughtful and really dang fun. Plus he managed to cut off at the pass a couple of viejos trying to hit on us the other night. This culture is, I am constantly reminded, quite different than the one I'm used to. The sexism on the streets is more overt and among even DHM's enlightened friends, an active mental struggle. There seems to be a way in which we, as women less culturally trained to be reserved, are easier to befriend for them. And for us it has been more difficult to make friends of women at least partially because they are less willing to join in on late night (Claudia, who runs our hostal refers to DHM, her sister and I as "las vampiras") outings to cantinas and dance joints. And then there is the flirting. I have not felt like I was flirting with men in a very long time. With all men, here, I seem to be flirting though I have made it a point to connect myself to the word "lesbiana." This gender interplay is something I'm just starting to process, really.

Still on NY time, I started out waking up a few hours before the others. I passed my mornings wandering the streets and trying (often failing) to get my bearings with the tiny map torn from Lonely Planet (Roberto calls it the Gringo bible). We have a great restaurante down the block which serves up a typical breakfast of eggs, beans, tortillas, platanos with crema, coffee and chips for 15Q or about $2. Though we have a kitchen here, I've found myself drawn down the the restaurante to watch the owner's children play in and out of the kitchen. The coffee is terrible, though so I prowled around various coffee shops until discovering Dante, which really does cater to gringos, but its proprietor, Maria makes a mean latte. Plus she's incredibly chatty and doesn't seem to mind the syntax-confusing pauses that riddle my spanish. And she has a cute baby. Cute babies everywhere, money nowhere. Lack of family planning and sexism going hand in hand, what a surprise.